And it's just a slow-cooked dish, and everybody is fond of it. The corn is scraped off the cob, you have this milky mixture that you cook with onions and butter and celery. Maque chou is traditionally made during the summer, when corn is in season, usually in Arcadiana and sometimes in New Orleans. BIENVENUE: Maque chou which has - it really, literally, French-translated, it means false cabbage, but it has nothing to do with cabbage. NORRIS: And how did you decide to include this particular recipe? NORRIS: Because I want to talk about the maque chou. NORRIS: And I understand that you have a copy of the book with you. NORRIS: Can we talk about some of the specific recipes in the book?
So some of these recipes were not, you know, recent ones. So we had to go back through our archives and you know, some of them went back to the '50s and '60s. When they started writing in, you know, we assumed that possibly most of the recipes had been published in the Times-Picayune, but there was certainly no guarantee that all of them had. People were worried that they would lose, you know, their grandmother's favorite recipe for stuffed mirlitons, or their grandfather's recipe for gumbo. And their comfort was found in the foods that they were used to. The people that stayed here had lost everything, and they just wanted some kind of comfort. And of course, a lot of people had been sent away to other states. Food in this area, the cuisine is just such a strong part of their heritage. BIENVENUE: Well, I realized, Michele, early on that if this would have happened in any other city, people would not have been writing in for their lost recipes. Throughout this process, what did you come to learn about the importance of food to people in that state? NORRIS: Marcelle, you also wrote the column called "Creole Cooking," and you worked on the recipe swap there at the Times-Picayune. MARCELLE BIENVENUE (Co-editor, "Cooking Up A Storm: Recipes Lost and Found From The Times-Picayune Of New Orleans"): Thank you. It was so popular that the newspaper went one step further and created a cookbook called "Cooking Up A Storm: Recipes Lost and Found from the Times-Picayune of New Orleans." Marcelle Bienvenue is the co-editor of the book, and she joins me now. The Times-Picayune created a recipe swap, a column they called "Exchange Alley," named for a street in the French Quarter. People started writing in asking for copies of recipes they'd once clipped from the paper.Īn idea was born. That became evident to the editors at the Times-Picayune newspaper in New Orleans. And since we're talking about Louisiana, a place where food is in itself a kind of religion, losing a family's culinary heritage was cause for a special kind of sorrow. They also lost another part of their heritage: cherished family recipes. When Hurricane Katrina blew through Louisiana, all kinds of people lost all kinds of worldly possessions: photos, furniture of homes, unreplaceable mementos.
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